Shooting the rapids, cycling, hiking in Montana

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No shortage of outdoor activities in north mountain region

Published Aug 12, 2024  •  5 minute read

Pat LeeShoulder season is a good time to check out the Going-to-the-Sun Road in Montana’s Glacier National Park. It is closed to cars from mid-May until mid-June, while from July 1 to Labour Day, cars must make a reservation to drive certain sections of the iconic mountain pass.  Photo by Pat Lee

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“Come here Jeffrey! Jeffrey, come see us!”

The Jeffrey in question was a medium-sized mixed breed dog who had found himself stranded overnight across the Flathead River that borders Montana’s Glacier National Park, which was flowing heavily thanks to the spring runoff. Scared across the waterway by something, poor Jeffrey cried all night with the hope of being rescued by mom and dad, who could hear his doggie pleas for help but couldn’t get to him due to the high, fast water.

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Then here we came along the next morning, five travel journalists on the first river rafting trip of the day with Glacier Raft Company, oblivious to the dog’s plight until being flagged down by his frantic owners who pointed to him on the opposite bank.

At first we couldn’t see the brown dog and we wondered if he was even there. But moments later he came into view, standing on the side of the embankment amid a tangle of roots and downed trees. Rafting guide Kenny Kirker expertly steered the boat toward the stranded dog, getting in close enough that with a bit of coaxing, Jeffrey was able to jump onto the boat.

Moments later he was on the opposite shore in the arms of his sobbing mom Britney and a somewhat incredulous dad Tim and we were on our way, like it was our job to go up and down the river saving dogs. (Note: If such a job exists, I am available).

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Ed Coleman Jeffrey, a 13-year-old dog, is rescued by participants on a rafting trip with Glacier Raft Company near Glacier National Park in Montana in June. The dog, scared across the river the night before, was reunited with his relieved owners after being ferried across the river. Photo by Ed Coleman

Happy to have played our part in reuniting Jeffrey with his relieved owners, we continued to have an amazing rest of the day on the river, just one of the great activities that can be pursued in the northern part of the state that borders with Waterton National Park in Alberta.

Whether it’s shooting the rapids, cycling the legendary Going-to-the-Sun Road, hiking any of the hundreds of kilometres of scenic trails or just chilling with a cocktail after a day in the great outdoors, the mountain region of Montana is an outdoor enthusiast’s dream.

Arriving early in June during the less crowded shoulder season, our group made West Glacier Village, adjacent to the national park, our home base for a few days. Our comfy cabins were just a short walk from places to eat, stock up on a few snacks or grab a coffee.

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We got the mountain party started with a full day of whitewater rafting, which began at Glacier Raft Company’s office in West Glacier Village, where we were all set up in the gear required for five to six-hours on the river.

Since it was early June and a rainy day, we were suited up in wetsuits, waterproof footwear, fleece jackets and rainproof pullovers.

After a short bus ride to the launch site, where the guides reviewed safety protocols, we set off on the river, with the first portion more meandering than thrilling, but with beautiful scenery and guide Kenny filling us in on the wildlife that might be around (including lost dogs, it would seem), stories on early explorers and the history of the railway, which followed the river.

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We stopped for a delicious riverside lunch of a choice of grilled chicken, veggie or bison burgers, which the guides cooked to perfection over a wood fire. With stuffed bellies, it was then time to hit a succession of Class II or III rapids as we went through the John Stevens Canyon. Due to the spring runoff, our guide said many of the rapids were closer to Class III that day as we hit whitewater runs with names like Bone Crusher, Jaws or Tunnel.

West Glacier Village offers cabins, as well as space for RVs and trailers, just a short distance from Glacier National Park in Montana. West Glacier Village offers cabins, as well as space for RVs and trailers, just a short distance from Glacier National Park in Montana. Photo by Pat Lee

While we had been given the training on what to do if someone flips out of the boat (a rare occurrence, but it does happen), happily those skills were not needed.

Plus, we had already used up our life saving credit with Jeffrey.

The next day we were ready to jump on bikes to tackle a section of the Going-to-the-Sun Road, a stunning 81-kilometre scenic transmountain thoroughfare built in the 1920s and ’30s to draw tourists to the area (a plan so successful you now need to make a reservation to drive sections of the road from July to Labour Day).

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The park road takes you to Logan Pass at the Continental Divide during the summer months when it is clear of snow.

But for a few months in late spring when crews have cleared a section of the road, famous for getting snow drifts of up to 18 metres in some sections, it’s open to cyclists who can go as far as the work has been done to that point.

The road generally fully opens around Father’s Day in June.

Worried about being able to cycle up a mountain pass, I had done a bit of training while still at home, but my fears were allayed by the fact we were given e-bikes and the road itself is not overly steep in most places due to its ingenious design that only includes one switchback.

All to say, our group pretty effortlessly cycled up a section of the pass from Avalanche Creek to the Loop, which was as far as we could go that day.

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And what a stunning section of road it was, taking us through beautiful stone tunnels, past rushing McDonald Creek, waterfalls and with the still snowcapped Rocky Mountains viewable from every vantage point. It’s not hard to see why the road was the first in America to be designated a National Historic Landmark and a National Civil Engineering Landmark.

All this outdoor activity made us hungry, of course, and we enjoyed relaxed meals at the various family-style restaurants in West Glacier Village (Freda’s Bar, West Glacier Café, Glacier National Pizza, as well as the more upscale and historic Belton Chalet).

We also drove to nearby Columbus Falls for dinner one night for a meal at the Gunsight Saloon, which is relatively new but has gone for a historic western feel.

Oh, and in case you’re wondering, I checked in with Jeffrey’s mom a few days after his ordeal and the 13-year-old dog was apparently no worse for wear after his scare.

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Source link : https://o.canada.com/travel/shooting-the-rapids-cycling-hiking-in-montana

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Publish date : 2024-08-12 21:53:39

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